PHNOM PENH ORIENTATION
 |
Independent Monument Cambodia |
Phnom Penh, the Capital of Kingdom of Cambodia, Suituated at the junction of the three great rivers- the Mekong, the Tonle Basac and the Tunle Sap. Phnom Penh is the city of opposites exotic Southeast Asian culture and up -and-coming modernity. a small capital city it manage to retain its charm at the same time as offering a varied lifestyle and many attractive options for entertainment.It is gaining a reputation for business and also represents a convenient gateway to other areas of Cambodia, with good transport links.
Among the many attractions in Phnom Penh you can visit of several cultural and historical attractions including the Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda and the National Museum. There are also a wide variety of services including five star hotels and budget guest houses, fine international dining, sidewalk noodle shops, neighborhood pubs international discos and more.
As well as the attractions listed above. Phnom Penh is a good place for shopping for souvenirs and other items. you can find all sorts of traditional handicrafts, silks, gems, antiques and textiles shop around because prices vary. Try the Russian Market, where you can get the best souvenirs at reasonable prices and a huge variety of cheap DVDs and CDs. The Central Market has better selections of closthing and postcards. You can also find a lot of art galleries and shops along Street 178. Once you have finished seeing the sights, and bying still you drop, relax with a cool drink on the river front, and allow this excitable yet relaxing city to work its magic on you while the sun set.
Airport Name: Phnom Penh International Airport. (PNH) Language: Khmer, secondarily English and French Ethnic Groups: Khmer (~95%), ethnic-Vietnamese, ethnic-Chinese, Cham, several ethno-linguistic minority groups (‘hill tribes in the northeast. Religion: Theravada Buddhism (~97%), Islam, Christianity, Animism, Caodaism Population of Phnom Penh: 2,000,000 Land Area of Phnom Penh: 357 km2 Currency: Riel (~US$1=4050R). US dollars are as commonly used as riel Voltage: 220v/50Hz Time Zone: GMT +7 hours Business Hours: 7:30-11:30 / 2:00-5:00 Closed Saturday afternoon and Sunday
WHAT TO BRINGThe Sun can be intense so bring a hat or umbrella, Sunglasses and perhaps sunblock. Carry a raincoat during wet season, though you will probably only need it in the afternoon. During sunrise and sunset hours, you should have mosquito repellent. For climbing narrow steps and walking on uneven surfaces, you should wear pratical shoes. Very short dresses are not allow to enter some of tourist sites.
Airport Departure Tex: Domestic US$6.00, International US$ 25.00.
Phnom Penh International Airport: Taxi and Motorcycle Taxi (Motodups) can be hired just outside the arrival teminal. There are not meter taxis. Taxi cost US$ 7.00 for the 30-50 Minutes ride into the city center. Cheaper and less comfortable, motorcycle taxis can be hired for US$ 2.00 into town. Taxis and Motortaxis are drop you till the door.
CLIMATECOOL DRY(November-February): A comfortable time of year to visit the temples near Siem Reap. It's the middle of the cool season with average mid-day temperatures in the mid 20s, sometime dipping below 20 at night. The monsoon rains trailed off through October and November, and have usually stopped completely by mid November. These months - November through February - are generally considered to be the best time of year to visit, with December and January offering the very best weather of the year across the country - comfortably warm days, clear skies, no rain, light breeze, cool evenings. Temperatures begin to creep up a bit through February and there are occasional, short 'mango showers' in the afternoon.
HOT & DRY(March-May): The dry season continues, the only precipitation being short 'mango showers' in the afternoons that slowly increase in frequency and intensity through these months. During these months river and lake levels are very low, generally making boat/river ferry travel much less reliable. The low river and lake levels make boat passage difficult and can greatly increase travels times. On the other hand, road travel (bus, taxi, motorcycle) is much easier and more reliable for lack of rainy season flooding. The temperature slowly rises through February and March, peaking out in April and May before the monsoons begin. February and March are still comfortable but by April mid-day temperatures can hover in the mid to upper 30s, especially in inland areas like Siem Reap. Though sometime hot, the lack of rain still leaves this a good time of year to visit the temples.
HOT & WET(June-August): The hot season continues but is fairly quickly moderated as the monsoon rains begin in May and June, cooling, if only a bit, the hot, dry air. Across most of the country, the monsoon rains are fairly predictable, usually occurring in the afternoon or at night. And the afternoon rains usually last no more than a couple of hours making them fairly easy to plan around, especially if you are visiting the temples or touring. In fact, the Angkor temples are at their aesthetic best during the wet season. The surrounding moats and reflecting pools are full, the jungle is lush and moisture bring outs the colors of the stone and the lichens and moss growing on the temples. Boat travel becomes easier and more reliable as the river and lake levels rise, but as the wet season progresses, some roads sometimes deteriorate or become inundated.
COOL & WET(September-October): . The air doesn't really begin to cool much until October or November, but still, its cooler than the hot months. In September the temperatures hover in the mid 30s and slowly drop through the following months. By October, the mid day temperatures are around 30. In September the rainy season is just passing its peak. The rains are still very regular and intense, but by October the frequency is usually dropping off considerably. By the end of October the rains are close to stopping completely, if they haven't already. As the rains end through October, the best time of year to visit Cambodia begins.
ADMISSION AND TICKETTop<
Royal Palace: US$ 6.25/person
National Museum: US$ 3.00/person
Wat Phnom: US$ 1.00/person
Toul Sleng: US$ 2.00/person
Killing Field: US$ 2.00/person
Phnom Penh is a fairly easy city to get around. Though traffic is getting more congested by the day, you can still travel the length of the city in less than 30 minutes. Due to rising fuel costs, transportation prices are in flux. See page 7 for transport from airport.
Motorcycle Taxi (Motodup): The omnipresent ‘moto’ is the most common and fastest form of public transportation, but not necessarily the safest. They are more prone to accidents and robberies than cars. Motos can be found virtually everywhere in town, just step to the curb and they will find you. Motos cost from 1500R-4000R for a trip in town and $6-$8 per day. Prices go up at night and for multiple passengers.
Motorcycle trailers (‘Tuk-tuks’): Motorcycle trailers and cabs (‘tuk-tuks,’ moto-romauks) have become quite popular. They are more comfortable than motodups and are covered, offering some protection from the sun and rain. Unlike the noisy, two-stroke namesakes common to Bangkok, the Cambodian ‘tuk-tuks’ offer a quieter, more pleasant ride. Moto-romauks for hire gather in popular tourist areas such as the riverfront and in front of tourist hotels. $1-$2 for short trips and $10-$15 for the whole day. Prices vary depending on the number of passengers and where you pick up the tuk-tuk.
Public Taxis and Car Rental: There are a couple of small on-call taxi services. Taxi Vantha (012-855000, www.taxivantha.com ) is reliable and available 24 hours. More common are unmetered, unmarked taxis, which can be arranged through your hotel or travel agent. A car with driver costs $25-$35/day. Shorter jaunts run a minimum $2-$3. All Destinations offers car and 4WD rental, with driver. Bodyguards available. Tel: 016-779901.
Cyclos: The humble cyclo can be a romantic and practical form of transport though not as safe as a car or fast as a moto. Cyclos are easier on the nerves than motos and during a rain they offer a drier ride. Curiously, cyclos often charge twice as much as a motodup.
Buses: There is no regular in-city bus system in Phnom Penh. Phnom Penh Sorya Transport Co. offers bus service to several provincial destinations along the National Routes as well as Bangkok and Ho Chi Minh City.
Motorcycle Rental: Motorcycles (100cc-250cc) can be rented for $5 - $9/day. Tourists often rent 250cc dirt bikes, though they are a bit too much bike for the slow city traffic. For in-city driving, 100cc is recommended. Chaotic traffic makes cycling in the city challenging in the extreme. Roads outside the city vary in condition. If you do decide to ride, drive slowly, stay right, wear a helmet and remember that medical services are limited.
EATING AND DRINKINGTour guide particaly helpful in explaining the basreliefs and history of the temples, Tour guide can be hired through most hotels and travel agents. Mose guide can be hired around US$ 20-25 per day.
TOURIST SITE
ROYAL PALACE: The Royal Palace in Phnom Penh was constructed over a century ago to serve as the residence of the King of Cambodia, his family and foreign dignitaries, as a venue for the performance of court ceremony and ritual and as a symbol of the Kingdom. It serves to this day as the Cambodian home of King Norodom Sihamoni and former King Norodom Sihanouk. The Royal Palace complex and attached 'Silver Pagoda' compound consist of several buildings, structures and gardens all located within 500x800 meter walled grounds overlooking a riverfront park. Marking the approach to the Palace, the high sculpted wall and golden spired Chanchhaya Pavilion stand distinctively against the riverfront skyline. Inside the Palace grounds, street sounds are silenced by the high walls and the various Royal buildings sit like ornate islands rising from the tranquil, manicured tropical gardens. Except for the area of the actual Royal residence, the Khemarin Palace, most of the Palace grounds and Silver Pagoda are open to the public. Enter from the gate on Sothearos Blvd about 100 meters north of Street 240. Guide pamphlets and tour guides are available near the admission booth. Guided tours are recommended. Multi-lingual tour guides available. Open everyday, 7:30-11:00 / 2:00-5:00. The Palace grounds are closed during official functions.
NATIONAL MUSEUM: The distinctive rust-red National Museum next to the Royal Palace was dedicated by King Sisowath in 1920. Over 5000 objects are on display including Angkorian era statues, lingas and other artifacts, most notably the legendary statue of the ‘Leper King.’ Though the emphasis is on Angkorian artifacts, there is also a good collection of pieces from later periods, including a special exhibition of post-Angkorian Buddha figures. Visiting the museum after rather than before a trip to the Angkor Archaeological Park in Siem Reap helps lend context to the Angkorian artifacts. Multi-lingual tour guides are available. Souvenirs and books available. Photography is limited. The museum borders Street 178, aka ‘Artist’s Street’ which is lined with local art galleries and souvenir shops. The Reyum Gallery on Street 178 is of particular note, exhibiting the works of contemporary Cambodian artists.
INDEPENDENCE MONUMENT: The Independence Monument (Vimean Ekareach) was inaugurated in November 9, 1962 to celebrate Cambodia’s independence from foreign rule. Renowned Cambodian architect, Vann Molyvann was the architect of the monument. The Independence Monument now also serves as a monument to Cambodia’s war dead. It is the site of colorful celebrations and services on holidays such as Independence Day and Constitution Day.
WAT PHNOM: A small hill crowned by an active wat (pagoda) marks the legendary founding place of the Phnom Penh. The hill is the site of constant activity, with a steady stream of the faithful trekking to the vihear, shrines and fortune tellers on top, and a constellation of vendors, visitors and motodups at the bottom. Elephant rides available. The legend of the founding of Wat Phnom is tied to the beginnings of Phnom Penh. Legend has it that in 1372 Lady Penh (Yea Penh) fished a floating Koki tree out of the river. Inside the tree were four Buddha statues. She built a hill (‘phnom’ means ‘hill’) and a small temple (wat) at what is now the site of what is now known as Wat Phnom. Later, the surrounding area became known after the hill (Phnom) and its creator (Penh), hence ‘Phnom Penh.’ The current temple was last rebuilt in 1926. The large stupa contains the remains of King Ponhea Yat (1405-1467) who moved the Khmer capital from Angkor to Phnom Penh in 1422. Look for the altar of Lady Penh between the large stupa and the vihear. She is said to be of particular help to women. Wat Phnom is the busiest pagoda in town the night of Chinese/Vietnamese New Year’s Eve.
CHOEUNG EK (KILLING FILD): From April 17, 1975 until January 7, 1979, the ultra-Communist Khmer Rouge (i.e. Red Khmer) regime, led by Pol Pot, controlled the whole of Cambodia. Under the Khmer Rouge regime the country was known as ‘Democratic Kampuchea.’ During the short reign of the Khmer Rouge, between one million and two and a half million Cambodians perished, some killed outright, others dying from disease, malnutrition, neglect and mistreatment. Many of the dead ended up in various ‘killing fields’ that can be found scattered across the country. The killing fields were essentially ad hoc places of execution and dumping grounds for dead bodies. The memorial at Choeung Ek just outside Phnom Penh was an orchard and a Chinese cemetery prior to 1975. During the Khmer Rouge regime it became one of the killing fields - this particular killing field is the site of the brutal executions of more than 17,000 men, women and children, most of whom first suffered through interrogation, torture and deprivation in the S-21 Prison (Toul Sleng) in Phnom Penh. Choeung Ek is now a group of mass graves and a memorial stupa containing thousands of skulls. It’s about a 20-40 minute drive from the center of Phnom Penh. There are guides available at the site, and a small souvenir shop. For sake of historical context, combine your trip to Choeung Ek with a visit to Toul Sleng Genocide Museum.
TOUL SLENG: Prior to 1975, Toul Sleng was a high school. When the Khmer Rouge came to power it was converted into the S-21 prison and interrogation facility. Inmates were systematically tortured, sometimes over a period of months, to extract confessions, after which they were executed at the killing fields of Choeung Ek. S-21 processed over 17,000 people, seven of whom survived. The building now serves as a museum, a memorial and a testament to the madness of the Khmer Rouge regime. Much has been left in the state it was when the Khmer Rouge abandoned it in January 1979. The prison kept extensive records, leaving thousands of photos of their victims, many of which are on display. Paintings of torture at the prison by Vann Nath, a survivor of Toul Sleng, are also on display. The museum’s famous and controversial ‘skull map’ is no longer on display.
RIVER CRUISE: Short river cruises and dinner cruises along the Phnom Penh riverfront are becoming more popular. A short cruise typically takes about 1-1/2 - 2 hours and runs up the Tonle Sap River along the central riverfront area providing a picturesque view of the Royal Palace, National Museum, parks and Phnom Penh skyline, and then across the Tonle Sap and up the Mekong River to view floating fishing villages. (Photography note: Best lighting in the early morning as the low eastern sun illuminates the front of the Palace.)
RIVER FRONT: Some of Phnom Penh's most important cultural sites as well as dozens of pubs, restaurants and shops sit along the picturesque park-lined riverfront overlooking the chaktomuk - the confluence of the Tonle Sap, Mekong and Bassac Rivers. The Royal Palace, the Silver Pagoda and the National Museum are clustered together between Street 178 and 240 and restaurants and pubs line the riverfront road Sisowath Quay, stretching north from the Royal Palace area all the way to Street 104 near Wat Phnom. Visit the Royal Palace and National Museum and stroll up the riverfront for a drink or a meal or to do some shopping. Just off the riverfront, Street 240 behind the Royal Palace harbors several restaurants and high-quality boutiques and Street 178 next to the National Museum is known as 'Art Street' and is dotted with interesting little art galleries and silk shops. Early risers, check out the spectacular sunrise over the river in front of the Royal Palace area.
CENTRAL MARKET: This unique, art-deco building is a Phnom Penh landmark. Prior to 1935 the area was a swamp/lake that received the runoff during the rainy season. The lake was drained and the market constructed in 1935-37. Wet season flooding in the area around the market of the market is a vestige of the old lake. The entrance to the market is lined with souvenir merchants hawking everything from T-shirts and postcards to silver curios and kramas. Inside is a dazzling display of jewels and gold. Electronic goods, stationery, secondhand clothes and flowers are also in ample supply. (Phsar Thmei means ‘New Market’, but ‘Central Market’ has caught on in English.)
RUSSIAN MARKET: This market is of far less architectural interest but has a larger and more varied selection of souvenirs, curios and silks than the Central Market. Like the Central Market, it has a good selection of silver, gold and jewels, but also carries huge selection of curios, silks, carvings, etc. The Russian Market offers the largest selection of bootlegged VCDs, DVDs and CDs of all of the traditional markets. Most of the CD vendors are located on the south side near the southeast corner of the market. It’s also a good place to buy fabric for business and casual cloths to take to the tailor. Most of what the visitor might want is in the same general area on the south side but the rest of the market is well worth exploring. Food and drink stands in the middle of the market for hygienically adventurous visitors.
OLD MARKET: A truly local market offering goods such as fruits and vegetables, second hand clothes, hardware and religious articles. In the late afternoon food vendors and fruit sellers spread their mats and set up their stalls in and along street 13 in preparation for an evening market. The dinner rush makes for a confusing, pungent, dirty, potentially photogenic scene.
OUDONG: About an hour west of Phnom Penh, just off Route #5, lay the hills of the abandoned royal city of Oudong. Oudong was the capital of Cambodia from the early 17th century until 1866 when the capital was moved to Phnom Penh. Several temples, stupas and other structures cover three hills. The walk up the hill provides an excellent countryside view. The hill is crowned with stupas containing the remains of several Cambodian kings including King Monivong (1927-1941) and King Ang Duong (1845-1859). The earliest structure is from the 13th century. These hills were also the site of some of the Khmer Rouge’s most prolonged resistance against the encroaching Vietnamese army in 1979. Several new temples and shrines have recently been installed on the hill. For something completely different, take a side trip to ‘Prasat Nokor Vimean Sour’, a concrete, unduly ornate, semi-replica of Angkor Wat built circa 1998.
Take a Kampong Chhnang/Oudong bound bus. Get off at the billboard in Oudong town and take a motodup the rest of the way to the site.
PHNOM CHISOR: At the top of Phnom Chisor sit some very nicely preserved 10th/11th century AD Angkorian era ruins. The temple was constructed under King Suryavarman I during a period when Angkorian Empire was powerful and on the rise. As most Angkorian temples of the period, this temple is Hindu, dedicated to Shiva and Vishnu. Scenes including Brahma, Shiva and Visnu are still visible, carved on some lintels and pediments. The 503 steps to the temple on top of the hill make for a fairly vigorous climb but the quality of the ruins and the amazing view of the countryside make the effort well worth it.
Bus: Buses depart for Takeo every hour from the Phnom Penh Sorya Transport bus station. Get off at at the turnoff marked by a big ‘Phnom Chisor’ sign (52km road marker) and take a motodup to the base of the hill.
PHNOM DA/ANGKOR BOREI: Angkor Borei is a town in Takeo province in the area of several ruins and archaeological digs. The area has been continuously inhabited for at least 2500 years and has yielded artifacts dating from the Neolithic period, the Funan period (4th/5th century AD) and Chenla (8th century AD) as well as the later Angkorian period (9th-15th century AD.) There are no significant temple ruins at Angkor Borei but there is a very interesting little museum displaying artifacts from the area and providing information on recent archaeological digs. About 20km from Angkor Borei is the hill of Phnom Da, crowned by an impressive 11th century Angkorian-era prasat (tower) with some carvings in good condition. The temple was constructed under King Rudravarman and dedicated to Shiva. Further down the hill is the unique little temple ruin Ashram Maha Rosei, quite unlike other Khmer monuments in both design and adornment. The design is reminiscent of Prasat Ashram Isay in the Sambor Prey Kuk group in Kampong Thom. Ashram Maha Rosei was constructed in the late 7th-early 8th century, during the pre-Angkorian Chenla period, under Bahavavarman and shows signs of non-Khmer influence. Note the unusual north-facing entrance.
Getting there: During the dry season, Phnom Da can be reached by road or boat. In the wet season, it can only be reached by boat. By road: Take the Takeo bound bus to the Phnom Chisor turnoff (52km from Phnom Penh.) Take a motodup or taxi to Phnom Chisor and then on to Phnom Da. Two hours on a rough road. By boat, take the bus to Takeo town. Pick up a boat to Angkor Borei and Phnom Da. $25 for the whole boat. During the dry season you will stop well short of the hill and will have to hike a ways.
NEANG KMAO TEMPLE: Standing next to an active pagoda, Prasat Neang Khmau consists of two deteriorating brick prasats (towers) built in the Angorian-era in the 10th century A.D. under King Jayavarman IV. There was probably at least one more ancient prasat where the modern pagoda now sits. Prasat Neang Khmau was originally dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. The temple complex is named after Neang Khmau, ‘Black Lady’, a modern-era statue located in front of the temples.
Bus: Buses depart for Takeo every hour from the Phnom Penh Sorya Transport bus station. Get off at at the 51km road marker. The temples are on a small hill right next to the road.
TUNLE BATI/TA PROM TEMPLE: Tonle Bati is a small lake and popular picnic spot for the locals - bamboo picnic stands and mats by the water. On the road to Tonle Bati there are two Angkorian era temples, Ta Prohm and Yeay Peau. Both temples were built under Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century during the same period that Bayon and Angkor Thom in Siem Reap were constructed. Ta Prohm is the more extensive and impressive of the two, displaying a number of very well-preserved carvings. Yeay Peau is a single sandstone tower situated next to an active pagoda displaying some carvings. The area has been occupied since the pre-Angkorian Funan period and Ta Prohm was modified and extended as late as the 16th century.
Bus: Buses depart for Takeo every hour from the Phnom Penh Sorya Transport bus station. Get off at at Tonle Bati at the 35km road marker and take a motodup to the base of the temples.
PHNOM TAMAO/ TA KMAO ZOO: The Phnom Tamao area is a popular destination for weekend holidayers from Phnom Penh, offering picnicking, a zoo and some minor Angkorian-era ruins. The Ta Khmau Zoological Gardens is Cambodia’s newest and best zoo displaying a variety of animals including lions, tigers, bears, birds and more. An 11th century, Suryavarman I temple ruin in very poor condition (Prasat Tamao) sits at the top of Phnom Tamao.
Located off of Route #2 at the 39km mile marker. Turn right. 1000 riel entrance fee.
MEKONG ILAND: For those with an interest in silk weaving or rural Cambodia, set aside a half-day for a boat trip to one of the nearby islands in the Mekong River. ‘Mekong Island’ (Koh Okhna Tey) is set up for visitors with silk weaving on display, demonstrations of other traditional crafts and a few local restaurants. The nearby but much more rural ‘Silk Weaving Island’ (Koh Dach) has a small village where there is a loom at every house and silk weaving is their mainstay. Arrange a visit through a travel agent (who will often combine it with other local destinations.) To do-it-yourself, contact one of the tourist boats that sit along the riverfront near Street 136. Depending on the boat, the price varies from $10 for the whole trip to $10/hour.